Varanasi the eternal city

A weekend trip to Varanasi or Benares or Kashi ,as it was known in earlier times was a memorable one.This was my first solo trip and I had a mixed feeling.Should I do it or change the date for later as my travel companion could not accompany me.After giving it a thought, I decided to head alone.
As soon as I landed in the hotel I had breakfast and a very good view of the Ganges.The call of the Ghats and the people around were too much for me to keep away.




So off I went looking for the Nepali temple which I could see from Puja GH.The temple is constructed ,the same way temples are constructed in Nepal.From its courtyard I could see lalita ghat,with very little activity.I descended the steps towards the ghat and made my way towards Dasaswamedh,the main and the holiest one.The main ghat was a very very busy place,with all kind of activities going on,from bathing to offering worship,beggars haggling for money,boatmen trying to get a customer and of course the foreigners shell shocked to see the heart of India.The ghats, as usual were busy with people engaged with something or the other and if someone is not doing anything,they are watching with interest the activity going around.

After the ghats ,I visited Kashi Vishwanath temple.The security around the temple is so tight that it is impossible to take a picture of the temple.The temple houses the Jyotirlinga of Shiva and is considered one of the holiest.People in olden times believed the Kashi yatra would lend one onto the path of liberation The temple was built by Late Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar in 1780.The streets of Varanasi is very famous for the rickshaw rides.It is impossible to walk through the streets on a busy day.All you can see is rickshaws,bikes,cars and no space for footpathers.







Varanasi is also famous for, the Banarasi silk,which is a must must for an Indian woman's wardrobe.The silk is imported from different Indian states or from abroad.The sarees are weaved in Varanasi,by the artisans who has been keeping this art since time immemorial.Boat rides are also very famous,especially in the morning and evening.If you are not so keen to walk and see the ghats the other option is to take a boat ride from one end of the ghat to another.














First I took the evening boat ride,I covered almost all the ghats till Assi ghat.The sunset view from the other side of the river was one of the most beautiful moment in Varanasi

The orange glow which splashed abundantly on the sky was reflected on the river ,giving the whole area a warm glow in the cold evening.I spent some time on the river bed just enjoying the silence.

Soon it was time for evening aarati and my boat boy took me right in front of the ghat to witness the aarati,which is conducted with much fanfare,pomp and show.

People were already packed on the step of the ghats,and boats started to settle around the ghat to view aarati.This was the first time I witnessed aarati,in a drill like sequence.How ever it was a beautiful experience,which will still fill you with calm and silence.The feelings you get in a holy place is something unique,which connects you directly with the divine.

Weather you are religious or not,whether u believe in the concept of God or not,it does not matter,you still feel the peace of mind.After dinner I settled down for the day,with a calm mind,body and spirit.
















Next morning I left the hotel at 6.30 am to get a view of the sunrise,it was a foggy morning.There were bleak chances of viewing the sunrise however I settled for a boat ride rather than sitting around the ghats.The boat ride was fun with fog,reducing the visibility.After an hour the condition still got worse,so I decided to get off the boat.There were alot of people having bath in the early hours.I walked aimlessly around the ghats for sometime till I found a tea stall near Ahalyabai ghat

.I sat down began chatting with the lady,selling tea.Still after one hour the fog did not clear so I finally left the ghat.Afternoon I visited Sankat Mochan and durga temple and then went around the market for shopping.By 6 pm I was there at the ghat for the aarati session,the last one as I would be leaving the next day.The aarati as usual was wonderful with the holy atmosphere,taking you under its folds.

Next morning I got up at 6 am.The day welcomed me with thick fog,so I went back to sleep till 8 am.Still the fog had not lifted.I had bath in the hotel and went to the ghats first thing as Monday the 26 th as it was Mauni Amawasya(new moon).It is considered meritious to have bath first thing in the morning before uttering any words on Mauni Amawasya.






Also a solar eclipse was forecasted. People come from far off places to take bath.So I went to the ghats washed my hands and feet and sprinkled the Ganges holy water on myself .I believer its the heart and mind that should be clean and pure rather than washing the physical body.



Thousands of people covered Dasaswamedh ghat to have the holy bath.People came in droves from the nearby villages.People kept on pouring in, the whole day.



I decided to walk from Lalita ghat to Assi ghat,after I reached Assi ghat I sat down below the Peepal tree,enjoyed a coke bottle and looked on for activity around the ghat.Everyone was busy with bathing and offering puja,also it is considered good to do charity on this day as it is believed to reach their late forefathers.You can see people carrying packets of rice distributing small amounts, to beggars lining the ghat steps.











As time was fast slipping by ,I took a boat from Assi to Manikarnika ghat,as I was told to have a look at the Parvati kund located nearby.There are alot of stories around the Kund where it is believed goddess Parvati ,lost her nose ring .Water from the kund flows into the Ganges.The Manikarnika Ghat,one of the most important ghats lies next to Parvati kund.The cremation ghat where the last rites are performed is one of the busiest.The burning of dead bodies takes places all day throughout the year.Most of us are scared to see dead people,I was no exception.Though I am not scared of the dead physically coming to haunt us,however the images which the brain captures always disturbs us in an uncanny way.This was my first experience when I felt nothingness after viewing the burning.The feeling was something I cannot explain,so humbling.After spending some time at Manikarnika I walked towards the Chowk.


By the time I reached the Chowk,10 dead bodied passed me on the way to the ghat,six were already burning
I hurried and bought some famous sweets,and collected my sarees which were sent for polishing.I was very happy to buy one banarasi saree for myself.I found the price quite good.I cannot be very sure if the sarees is 100 % pure silk(but it felt like one),but the designs looked so lovely,that I could not resist.After spending sometime I had to rush back to the hotel to pack .My train was at 7 pm so I still had two hours after lunch,for the last time I closed my eyes took a peaceful nap amidst the chaotic surrounding and the ghats below.