Saturday, April 19, 2008

Bus ride from Kinnaur to Spiti...

We started on 22 nd march at 7.40 am from New Delhi Station,took Satabdi till Kalka Arrived at 12 noon.There was no shared jeeps available as it was Holi and the drivers association were charging 1100/- for a drop till Shimla.Luckily we met a doctor couple and shared the taxi till Shimla.We reached around 3 pm.Our intention was to start to Sangla as soon as possible however there were no direct buses the same day so we settled in for the 6.30 pm bus to Reckong Peo(buses leave for Peo at 8 pm as well as 10.30 pm).We booked our seat on the 6.30 pm bus as we had time so we went to stroll in the mall.The bus was an ordinary local bus type.At that point of time we had no idea how we would manage throughout the night with not even a head rest.But we managed and my brother almost fell off the seat not once but twice as he was dozing all the way.We reached Peo on the wee hours at 3.30 am,as soon as we disembarked the bus we were hit by the cold wave doing the rounds.Seconds later we felt the chill sucking the warmth from our body,leaving us with clattering teeth.However when I looked around beyond the trees i saw the white Kinner Kailash shimmering in the dim moonlight,it was a heavenly feeling(after seeing the mountain so close i felt even colder).It was still dark so nowhere to go all the passengers from Peo quickly disappeared under the cover of darkness leaving two more passengers going to Nako my brother and me.Finally one of the passengers suggested to go for tea in the nearby hotel.We had tea,and I did manage to doze for sometime,by 6am we went to look for Shivling GH,we walked down the bus station.

The Guest House was locked from inside we tried our best to wake up someone ,but no one stirred,who would at that time in the morning.We met a local who suggested us to stay near the bus station as there are hotels there too.While talking to him, he was kind enough to show us the Shivling on the Kinner kailash peak,it was good to get the darshan in the morning.We found the Apple Orchard Guest House,just beyond the bus stop,was a newly made hotel clean rooms with gyeser.

Kalpa village with kinner kailash at the back drop




We planned to visit kalpa the same day took a bus at 10.30 am they charged us 10/-per person.We went around 
the village,finally asked the locals way to chakha pastures.One gentleman suggested we follow the water canal and we would reach the pastures.We started our hike as soon as we left the road we realised it would not be easy as this was no regular path but a steep upward climb.But we managed,we got a tea break at one of the houses and again started upwards.












View of kailash from chakha pastures

Once we left the houses behind,the clinb was a steep one.The higher reaches still had snow,though we have seen snow so many times ,yet the feeling it awakens is amazing,fresh and crisp.We were down in 4 hours time,as no food stalls were opened we caught the bus which was ready to leave for Peo at 5 pm,went directly to Peo bazaar had Thukpa and found the internet to inform people,we were fine,as my Vodophone network did not follow me where I went.



Chakha pastures






The Kinner Kailash range


Next day (third) we went to Sangla by 9.30 am bus reached there at 11.30 am.The bus ride to Sangla was one of the most thrilling rides,I must say the drivers do a great job,till you get off at sangla you'll not relax if you get the window seat
towards the slope.




Way to Sangla



We started towards Sangla Kanda immediately as we knew we had to be back to catch the last bus to Karchham.




Roads carved out of rock and a temple of the Godess to protect the roads.Our bus did stiop for sometime and we had prasad as well,looking at the roads its only the almighty who can ferry people safely on these roads.
The river baspa flowing past.














Sangla valley as seen from Sangla kanda.
We met alocal,who showed us the way he was a retired army guy,who had scaled Everest as well.The way to Sangla Kanda was ok, steep 
at times(just follow the broad path).We had a fairly good hike ,stopped at the second last house before we reached the lake for lunch break,had carried Wai Wai noodles so we asked the old lady for some hot water.


She invited us to her humble but very warm house she stays alone to take care of her apple orchard.The hike to the lake was around one hour from her house,by 2.30 pm we were thru with lunch,she offered apples and a small bottle of Angoorie(local grape drink) .








The Sangla Kanda lake



We started off with the hike,lunch and sun slowing us down ,we had decided if we do not reach the lake by 4 pm,we would return to catch the last bus out of Sangla It was 3.50 pm still no sign of a lake ,finally I told my brother we would walk upto the shepherds housewhich we could see from below and no more,when 




View from Sangla Kanda.
we reached the top there was our small lake hidden on the other side.I hope you
all can feel the sense of achievement we felt at that time,ha ha.

Sangla Kanda lake


It was windy and the heat which had built up from the walk uphill was suddenly snatched by the cold wind blowing from the snowy hill above.We spent 10 mins
around the lake taking photographs and storing the scenery in out heart for the rest of our lives.We started our descend at 4.10 pm,we literally ran down the hill,infear of reaching the bus stoplate.By 5.30 pm we were at the bus stop,the bus was just ready to leave,we boarded the bus till Karchham,and caught a later bus to Peo at 6.30 pm reached Peo at 7.30 pm,an eventful day came toan end.




Nako Lake
We will be starting to Nako tomorrow(4 th day) at 7.30 am as the Kaza bus leaves at 7.30am.Its called the Kaza bus by locals.(Day 4th)We boarded the bus to Nako at 7.30 am its a 5-6 hours journey,this bus goes directly to Kaza.





























Nako village
There is one more bus which comes from Rampur which departs at 12.00 noon from Peo which goes to Shalkher.The road is awesome specially at the Sutluj and Spiti river sangam.We got off the bus at 1.15 pm at Nako.Once we reached the village we got to know all the hotel and restaurants were closed as the season had not yet kicked off......a huge disappointment,moreover now we didnot have any option the bus had already left.





Waiting for a vehicle at Nako

We talked to some locals and they suggested we carryon to Chango or Shalkher where there are hotels and as the bus would stop at Shalkher,we could see one small option on the horizon .At 5.30 pm we stopped a Sumo which was on its way to Shalkherit took us 2.5 hours to reach.The driver of the cab took us to the hotel and then we realised therewas no hotel,the ground floor of the house was turned into dormetry kinds which were used by labourers and bus staff and simple food were provided,we had no options but to stay.After dinner of rice,curry and dal the land lady came to me and said she will provide accomodation for us at her home(such a relief).
Tabo monastry complex




















Next morning we were on our way to Tabo.We reached Tabo at 10.30 am andhad decided to move on to kaza (on the 3.30 pm Kaza bus from Peo)after visiting the monastry,however a local suggested we go to Dhankar first as it falls on the way to Kaza.
Tabo cave shrines










We satyed at Tabo at the Millenium GH as that was the only one open.Tabo happened to be a beautiful place surrounded by with high hills,and the blue Spiti silently flowing past the village.







Sichiling











For Dhankar we travelled to the village of Schiling,then trekked uphill to Dhankar .It took us an hour and a half to reach the monastry .

Unique Land formations













The old monastry was closed,and we were thirsty so we asked for water instead the lady of the house offered to make tea,later that invitation turned to lunch as well.













Tashi and Choden two girls on my sides who invited me for lunch.
We spent some time with the family ,so we did not get time to go to the lake as our target was to reach kaza the same day and we had to be at Schiling by 4 pm for the Kaza bus.So after lunch we bid goodbyes and started our downhill walk.

Old Dhankar Gompa








It just took us half an hour to reach the village,a Sumo was ready to go towards Kaza so after resting for some time we proceeded towards Kaza.




















Ki Gompa

Kaza too was not open for visitors ,however Zambala was open and allowed us to stay.We stayed there for two nights,as your main purpose was to visit the KI gompa and Kibber village.

Ki Village and Monastery








Next morning we booked a taxi for Ki and Kibber,they charged us 400 rupees,but it was worth a visit.The first view of Ki Gompa was worthwile.The magnificient Gompa stands tall amongst the barren hills,its a beauty.










Kibber the highest village
After visiting the gompa,we drove to Kibber,which is a quite village mostly we will find young children with yaks.












Old lady with Yak

I dont know how to make the comparision the huge beast and the little masters.
After spending arounf two houes in thevillage we drove back to Kaza and next morning took the Kaza bus back to Reckong Peo.


We reached Peo at 5.30pm a bus was ready to go to shimla at 7 pm we boarded that bus too reached Shimla at 3.30 am.Took next bus to Chandigarh at 4.30 pm and another bus at 8 am to delhi from Chandigarh.This ended our return journey of 30 plus hours and also an amazing trip to Kinnaur and Spiti.




Kibber Village from above